It is good to know that our skin needs to be properly prepared, cared for according to the coming season, even more so as the summer season approaches. In winter, the skin becomes grey, dry and dull due to sulphurous frost or heating. This is when we often turn to AHA, BHA or PHA acid treatments. This is then the right time to exfoliate dead skin and refresh your appearance.
With the arrival of spring, it is still worthwhile to continue keratolytic treatments, although their intensity should be considerably lower. Salicylic, mandelic, glycolic, lactic, lactobionic, ascorbic or gamma-aminobutyric acids can be found in cosmetic surgeries. Each has a different effect on the skin and targets a different problem.
Glycolic acid, for example, will be ideal for older skins where the indications are wrinkles and small scars. In this case, the effects of the treatment will be cell renewal and an improvement in colour plus, of course, a shallowing of wrinkles and a reduction in the aforementioned scars.
Another example is salicylic acid, with a completely different application. Here the indication is acne and inflammatory lesions, due to the destructive action of the above-mentioned acid on Propionibacterium acnes bacteria responsible for the formation of imperfections. In addition, treatment with this acid regulates the sebaceous glands.
Probably the most interesting of the acids mentioned is the so-called Botox-like gamma-aminobutyric acid. This is due to its effect on GABA receptors found in skin cells, which results in inhibition of nerve signal conduction. In addition, there is a hexapeptide that blocks the neurotransmitter responsible for triggering muscle contraction. Both of these components (plus, of course, many others) provide an excellent alternative to botulinum toxin, without the need for an invasive procedure. Of course, the choice of preparation, its concentration, the time it is held on the skin and any other recommendations should be chosen by a professional.
In the current situation, it is worth taking an interest in appropriate home care. However, when looking for cosmetics, we should not be guided only by the brand, the price, the purpose and, above all, the composition. Therefore, it is important to know how to read the composition of cosmetics in order to choose the most natural ones with active substances that have a positive effect on the skin. But even here, it is important to remember that it is not quantity but quality that counts!
And how do you read the ingredients? First of all, it is worth knowing that the ingredients on the INCI list are arranged not by chance, but in order of the amount of each ingredient in the overall product - gradually from the highest content to the lowest. It is therefore worth checking whether the active, skincare ingredients are at the beginning or rather at the end. Here, however, it should be borne in mind that there are a number of intermediates that are so active that their large quantity in a product could cause an allergic reaction or irritation, for example.
And what ingredients harm the skin?
Above all, the wrong products for the skin type. For example, if you have dry skin, cosmetics containing wheat germ oil work well, but it is not recommended for acne-prone complexions. The same applies to detergents. Currently, there is a fashion on the market for "SLS/SLES-free" products, which is, in a way, a good direction, while there are situations when such cosmetics work perfectly. Moreover, they are often replaced in the above-mentioned compositions by surfactants of similar washing strength, which misleads the unaware consumer.
What are the main things to look out for when choosing cosmetics for the holidays?
There are irritating ingredients and those that are indifferent, and sometimes even negative, for our skins. The former include formaldehyde and its derivatives, a preservative ingredient. According to European Union regulations, the amount of formaldehyde allowed in cosmetics is up to 5% in nail varnishes, 0.1% in oral care products and 0.2% in others. It is a controversial ingredient in that it can cause skin irritation, rashes or burning and itching. Of course, the occurrence of these symptoms depends on the degree of exposure and individual sensitivity.
The second is paraffin (Paraffinum Liquidum, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum). It is an ingredient derived from petroleum, with emollient properties, inert to the skin, i.e. devoid of beneficial vitamins or beneficial fats. In addition, the use of cosmetics containing paraffin on oily, acne-prone or combination skin may cause clogging of the sebaceous glands or increase skin disease.
One cannot fail to mention alcohol in cosmetics, which is used in a very versatile way. For example, it can act as a preservative, a transition promoter (increasing the permeability of the epidermal membrane, resulting in better penetration of active ingredients) or a solvent. The choice of a cosmetic with alcohol is dictated by its intended area of application. It is worth bearing in mind, however, that cosmetics with ethanol have a drying effect regardless of the position of the above-mentioned ingredient in the formulation. However, these are so marginal and relatively safe that they have been approved by the European Union.
So what to look for in cosmetic formulations for summer?
At the current time, when the weather outside the window is no longer winter, but not yet summer, when we are not using the aforementioned acid treatments, it is worth simply moisturising the skin, firming it (if we need to), taking care of its anti-free radical action or gently exfoliating it.
In cosmetics with a moisturising and/or nourishing effect, it is worth looking for ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, collagen, elastin, plant extracts such as the recently popular cambium mushroom extract, oils (selected according to skin type) or vitamins such as vitamin A or its plant equivalent, bukachiol.
At-home exfoliation treatments should be carried out with enzyme peels containing papain, bromelain or gentle fruit acids. Introduce oil serums with retinol into your skincare routine, of course, starting with the lowest concentration possible, allowing your skin to get used to the new ritual. An interesting option may be a serum with ceramides, which is great for regenerating facial skin.
However, the most important part of skincare, which should be present in the daily toilette all year round, is the use of creams with an SPF of at least SPF30. It is worth remembering to apply the right amount of it - at least 3 ml on the whole face (suggested amount is 5 ml).
Why? UV radiation can be divided into UVA and UVB types. The former penetrates the epidermal layer, reaching the dermis layer of the skin, where it has a degrading effect on collagen fibres, causes mutation of the DNA of skin cells (formation of skin cancer), damages blood vessels or causes skin discolouration. The intensity of UVA radiation is the same all day long, regardless of the weather and season. It penetrates through clouds, window and car windows. UVB, on the other hand, is responsible for the formation of erythema and sunburn.
Spring and summer are the ideal time to regenerate the whole body after winter, including the skin on the face. So let's make sure we remove our make-up thoroughly, remember to exfoliate regularly, moisturise and protect against the sun, and our skin will return the favour with a wonderful glow and freshness.
Kornelia Kalarus
Cosmetologist